Russia, despite all the diversity of climatic zones and the breadth of territories, unfortunately, is not associated with a country that produces quality wines either by oenology experts or by most compatriots.
The reason for this anti-popularity is probably the Soviet past, when all large vineyards came under state control and the emphasis was on the quantity of wine produced, rather than its quality. Although, of course, semi-legal producers also had a hand (does anyone else remember the “wines” in bottles for bottling?).
Only in the 21st century did existing productions begin to evolve and reform, and enthusiasts and people who really understood this area had a chance to engage in winemaking themselves.
What is special about the Don Valley
We recommend starting your acquaintance with the achievements of Russian winemaking from the Rostov region, on whose territory wine began to be produced 13 centuries ago.
It is important to understand that the quality of the drink is influenced not only by the production process, but also by the original product, that is, the grapes themselves. Its taste, in turn, is influenced by climate, soil, slope angle, altitude, amount of precipitation per season, temperature changes and much more.
What helps grapes in the Rostov region? Sufficient amount of light, heat (in the hot summer months there may even be an excess), proximity to the Sea of Azov on the one hand and to the deep Don on the other. The soil is predominantly chernozem. This, by the way, distinguishes local winemaking from European winemaking – such land simply does not exist in Europe.
What is the difficulty for producers? The climate in the Rostov region is continental. This means that sometimes frosts can come to the territory, and along with them – hail. In addition, proximity to the steppes is dangerous due to the invasion of dust storms. In this regard, the vineyards have to be covered, which increases the cost of production.
What grape varieties are worth paying attention to: autochthonous (those that grow only in one specific area) – Krasnostop Zolotovsky, Tsimlyansky Black, Shoulder, Sibirkovy, Kumshatsky White, Pukhlyakovsky. Local winemakers have managed to tame varieties that are more familiar to consumers: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Chardonnay, Aligote, Rkatsiteli, Saperavi, as well as Muscat and Bianca.
How to get there
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A flight from Moscow to Rostov-on-Don with Aeroflot will take about two hours.
Find tickets to Rostov
Upon arrival, rent a car (about 3,600 rubles per day*) or use the services of local carriers.
Where to stay
It all depends on which wineries you want to visit. Our route involves one or two nights in Rostov-on-Don and a couple more in Volgodonsk.
Rostov-on-Don:
Benamar Hotel&SPA from 2,700 rubles per night*
Mercure Rostov-on-Don Center from 4,300 rubles per night*
Hotel “Residence” (“Izvolte”) from 4,300 rubles per night*
Premier Rostov from 1,100 rubles per night*
Volgodonsk:
FreeDOM Premium Hotel from 4,000 rubles per night*
“Malinka Guest House” from 3,500 rubles per night*
Ogni Mayaka Holiday Park from 1,800 rubles per night*
Day one
Vina Arpachina
This winery, founded in 2010, is located just an hour’s drive from Rostov-on-Don, making it the best place to start your journey through the Don Valley.
The owners focus on autochthonous grape varieties, so there will definitely be something to try and be surprised at during the tasting. It’s worth warning right away that their prices are not the lowest. But all the wines, as they promise, are rare and unique and are produced in strictly limited editions.
The winery was the first in the Rostov region to receive two licenses for the production of still and sparkling wines of protected geographical indication (PGI) and so far the only license in the region for the production of wines of protected designation of origin (ZNMP) “Arpachin”.
Which wines to pay attention to: “Arpacino Extra Brut” white and pink, “Krasnostop Zolotovsky”, “Sibirkovy”, “Etude No. 8”.
Address: Manychskaya village, Sovetskaya street 173A
You can book the date and time of your visit on the website.
Day two
«Vedernikov Winery»
Founded in 2004, the winery is today one of the largest in the region. Since 2015, the farm has been part of the well-known Abrau-Durso holding.
Producers are also trying to focus on local grape varieties – at least 25% of the area is devoted to them, but they still grow more traditional ones, for example, Cabernet Sauvignon. Not the cheapest wines, but there are interesting examples.
Which wines to pay attention to: “Krasnostop Zolotovsky”, “Tsimlyansky Black Barrick”, “Rkatsiteli Barrick”, “Siberian White Extra Brut”.
Address: Rostov region, Vedernikov farm.
You can book a date and time of visit on the website.
«Tsimlyansk wines»
They say that Peter I himself respected Tsimlyansky wines and sent several barrels to France, and Pushkin mentioned them more than once in his works.
Another large local producer, whose vineyards were quite popular not only in the pre-revolutionary period, but also in Soviet times.
The main emphasis is on sparkling wines, thanks to which Tsimlyansk wines once became a brand. It is believed that the technology of this drink from the local varieties Tsimlyansky black and Plechistik was invented by the Cossacks back in the 18th century.
In general, all products are very budget-friendly, and the line is very wide, so everyone can choose a drink to their liking.
What wines to pay attention to: “Aged Extra Brut”, “Reserve Dry Rose”, “Reserve Tsimlyansky Black Red”
Address: st. Lazo, 1, Tsimlyansk.
You can book the date and time of your visit on the website.
Day three
Vinabani
Vineyards were established at this family-owned enterprise in 1977. The winery was organized in the premises of a former bathhouse – hence the unusual name.
The manufacturer assures that it does not use pesticides, and the vineyards themselves are located in an environmentally friendly area. Here you can find very rare autochthonous varieties, such as Musketny, Citron Magarach, Kumshatsky white. However, foreign “exotics” have also taken root, for example, Syrah and Malbec. What’s especially pleasant is that the prices for these quality wines are incredible.
Which wines to pay attention to: “33.3”, “Malbec”, “Shoulder”, “Cuvee No. 1”, “Father”.
Address: Rostov region, Malaya Martynovka village.
You can book dates and times for your visit on the website.
Villa Zvezda
Another small winery that produces wines using both autochthonous and common varieties. Founded from scratch in 2012. According to the manufacturer, the grape harvest here is done strictly by hand.
Two lines in different price categories are presented to consumers. Bonus – a charming house on the territory of a winery in traditional Russian style.
Which wines to pay attention to: “Ataman Grand Reserve Blend No. 1”, “Ataman Saperavi Northern Withered”, “Ataman Sibirkovy”.
Address: Administrative St., 13a, Mal. Martynovka, Rostov region.
You can book dates and times for your visit on the website.
Having visited the above wineries – it doesn’t matter whether all of them or several – you may be convinced that Russian wine can be of high quality, interesting and ready to compete with European wine. And the impressions from such a trip will absolutely stay with you for a long time, at least thanks to the landscapes of the Don Valley.
Photos: unsplash.com; shutterstock.com
