Tushetia is one of the most remote and inaccessible regions of Georgia. It is located in the northeast of the country and is cut off from other regions by high mountains and passes, so ancient fortresses, traditions and that special pristineness that tourists are looking for are well preserved there. The region is located at an altitude of one and a half to four and a half thousand meters. The territory is home to four communities, which administratively belong to the Akhmeta municipality, which is part of the Kakheti region.
The road to Tusheti is closed for the winter due to snow and opens only in the spring, and in the cold season only a few families remain there. Therefore, now is the time to “jump on the last car” to see the region in the fall, when there are almost no tourists there.
How to get there
Currently there are no direct flights between Russia and Georgia; we recommend flying with transfers in Istanbul or Yerevan. The cost of tickets departing at the end of October starts from 24,600 rubles* one way. To enter, Russians only need a foreign passport; they can stay in the country for 365 days without a visa. PCR tests and vaccination certificates will not be needed.
The road to Tusheti runs through a picturesque serpentine high in the mountains. It is not possible to get there by public transport. The most popular route is along the highway from Telavi through Pshaveli, Abano Pass at an altitude of about 3000 meters and further along the mountains to Omalo. The journey from Tbilisi will take 6-7 hours. To get there without incident, you will need four-wheel drive, otherwise there is a high chance of getting stuck at the very beginning of the climb to the pass. It’s better not to take risks and hire a driver with a suitable car in Tbilisi. It is important that the driver knew the local roads very well and had time not only to deliver you to your destination, but also to wait until the end of the trip and bring you back. Since the region is very far away, there is no point for the driver to go to the city, so be prepared to pay for the entire time spent with you.
Where to stay
The largest village in Tusheti is Omalo, where Georgy Danelia’s feature film “Mimino” was filmed. From there it is convenient to make forays into different locations in the region. Keep in mind that there are no large chain hotels with a high level of service in Omalo, but there are several cozy guest houses to choose from:
Guest House Gordila (rating 9 out of 10) – from 2,800 rubles* per night in a double room.
Guest House Old Omalo (rating 8.2 out of 10) – from 2,300 rubles* per night in a double room.
What to see
In fact, the entire territory of Tusheti is a national park where people continue to lead their lives and live far from civilization. Since 2003, protected areas have included three zones: a nature reserve, a national park and a landscape reserve. Unique plants such as black birch, Caucasian buttercup, and Tushino wrestler grow here. And in the sky you can often see how majestically soaring vultures, or, as they are also called, vultures, and mountain eagles.
In the old days, the dwellings of the Tushins were high, narrow towers: they kept cattle on the first floor, lived on the second, and on the third they kept a lot of stones in case of attack (the towers served as a defensive structure). Now the towers are a place of attraction for tourists from all over the world. And the Tushins still build their houses without cement mortar, skillfully stacking flat slate stones next to each other so that there are no gaps.
The locals adopted Christianity, but remained faithful to paganism: on special holidays, for example, on Atnigenobu, they sacrifice animals. This is also a folk art festival: aludi (beer brewing) and hitanoba (Tushino horse racing) are an integral part of the holiday.
The road to Tusheti is 70 km of mountain serpentine from the village of Pshaveli in Kakheti to the village of Omalo at the top. Tourists usually stop at a weather station at an altitude of 2,826 meters, which offers stunning views of the mountain ranges. If you’re lucky and the weather is good, there will be curly clouds floating in the valley under your feet, and you’ll definitely want to take a lot of pictures.
Omalo
The village is conventionally divided into Upper and Lower settlements. The first has more interesting views and attractions, the second has cheaper accommodation and tastier khinkali. From the local cuisine, we recommend trying khachapuri on potato flatbread; it differs from the usual one thanks to Tushino sheep cheese (gudu), which has a high fat content. The cheese is aged for 20 days in a sheepskin and it turns out surprisingly tasty, despite the specific smell.
After you’ve had your fill, go explore historical sites. Stone towers rise on the hills – this is the medieval Keselo fortress, a must-see point on the route. Here you will want to take a walk among the ancient buildings, enjoy the breath of a fresh mountain wind, listen to the noise of the mountain river far below the gorge – Tushetskaya Alazani.
Shenako
This is a unique village because the only functioning Orthodox church in Tusheti is located there. St. George’s Church was built in the 19th century and is a free-standing cross-domed building made of slate and lime. There was a square bell tower on the western wall of the gate, but now only the foundation remains.
For a tourist from Russia, Shenako may first of all remind you of the film “Mimino” – that’s where the main character comes from. Some scenes were filmed here, and some in Omalo. Both villages are located at approximately the same altitude, but they are separated by a picturesque mountain gorge.
Dartlo
One of the most photogenic villages of Tusheti: neat houses built as if according to a ruler, narrow streets and carved terraces, white clouds of sheep in the meadows, the sound of the river and thin lines of waterfalls in the mountains.
In the center of the village, next to the church, there are cinematic ruins of ancient Christian temples. Directly in front of them is a sign indicating that women are not allowed access to the shrine. In order not to offend local residents, we recommend that you respect traditions and be attentive to warning signs. Moreover, photographs of the relic taken from the outside are the most effective. Nearby, in a small semicircle, there are 12 stone chairs on which the village elders once sat.
If you are prepared for a steep climb, you can do a short trek up the hill where the defense towers are located. Some of the most unforgettable experiences will be left by a ghost town, where it is easy to be transported back in time, finding yourself among towers made of the same stones as the mountains around.
Bochorna
The village of Bochorna is located in the Gometsari gorge, from where views of the sand-colored mountain ranges extend. In the fall, you almost never see local residents here; due to the cold weather, they usually leave for the winter on the “mainland.” But if you are lucky, you will be able to meet the only permanent resident of Bochorna – doctor Irakli Khvedaguridze. Thanks to him, in 2014 the village regained its status from Ushguli (Svaneti) and became the highest settlement in Europe – 2345 meters above sea level. It’s very easy to feel like you’re on the edge of the world here. Not alone, but free.
This region itself is a huge natural attraction, where you can find literally everything: deep rivers with trout, waterfalls falling like silver lines from the edges of the mountains, smooth ridges covered with dense forest caps and a cold crust of glaciers. Grazing herds of sheep and horses, good-natured residents and delicious local cuisine – all this will give inspiration and a break from the usual life in the metropolis.
*Prices valid at time of publication
