In the Far East, in the embrace of two seas – the Sea of Okhotsk and the Sea of Japan – is the island of Sakhalin. There is always fresh seafood here, Korean cuisine is considered the second national, and the nature is harsh, but no less beautiful. In a series of articles, photographer Andrei Shelkova, who was born and raised on Sakhalin, will introduce you to the sights of the island region, including gastronomic ones.
Author: Andrey Shelkovoy
The Long Road to the End of the World
The only available way to get to the island from Moscow is by plane to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. Ticket prices start from 25,000 rubles* round trip. Direct flights depart from the capital twice a day: at 17:05 and 20:20. Travel time is about 8 hours.
In Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk you can relax and recover after a long flight, and then go explore the island, because all the beauty lies beyond its borders.
Where to stay:
Mini-hotel “Islander” from 1,000 rubles per night*;
Two-star hotel “Youth” at the foot of the mountain from 4,000 rubles per night*;
Four-star Mega Palace Hotel from 8,900 rubles per night*.
Okhotskoe village
Author: Andrey Shelkovoy
How to get there:
By car or regular bus No. 174 in 30–40 minutes. It departs from the city station, then gets to Okhotsky, waits a little and goes back to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk. And at this pace three times a day: in the morning at 8:30, in the afternoon at 13:15 and in the evening at 18:30. If you wish, you can order a taxi.
This is one of the most accessible locations on the island, located on the shores of the Sea of Okhotsk. More recently, part of the coast has been improved: take a promenade, buy takeaway food and hot coffee, relax on the benches or have a picnic on the shore overlooking the cold sea. From June to September, fishermen can be found on the coast. They try to catch salmon (masu salmon, pink salmon or chum salmon), but in addition to this, they can cast gear from the shore for other sea fish: perch, flounder, navaga, cod, etc.
There is nothing to do in Okhotsk all day, so it would be ideal to go there in the afternoon and return in the evening. Although this side is dawn, the rays of the setting sun still paint the sea and distant capes in warm colors. Such views will leave few people indifferent.
Ostanets Frog and Aikhor Waterfall
Author: Andrey Shelkovoy
How to get there:
By car or regular bus. Ostanets is located near the village of Vestochka. This is exactly on the route of bus No. 174 from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk to Okhotskoye, so I advise you to combine visits to these two places and propose the following plan:
- at 8:30 take the bus in Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk;
- get off in the village of Vestochka and follow the map to the beginning of the path to Lyagushka (at some point signs will appear, and then a landscaped area);
- conquer the small peak of the Frog outcrop. Route length – 3 km;
- return to the stop at 13:30* and continue the road to Okhotsk;
- have lunch and relax on the seashore;
- take the return bus to Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk at 19:10.
*time is approximate, since the bus from the city leaves at 13:15.
We got acquainted with the logistics, now I’ll tell you more about the attraction itself. For locals, and especially for indigenous peoples – the Ainu – this is a place of power. The ancient inhabitants of the island believed that the spirit of the Mother of all Ainu lived here. Rituals for successful conception and childbirth were performed here. They say that at the top you can hear their whispers, and in one place in the stones you can even find the silhouette of a shaman imprinted on an ancient rock.
Author: Andrey Shelkovoy
Modern residents come to Lyagushka to take a break from the city. It’s easier to breathe here, you can plunge into the crystal clear waters of the Komissarovka mountain river and enjoy the picturesque views. And if you have another 4–5 hours (the length of the route is 2–3 km in one direction from the foot of the Frog), take a walk to the Aikhor waterfall. Moreover, there is a path to it. Along the way, special signs will tell legends and help you immerse yourself more in the atmosphere of mysticism.
Remember that you can get lost even near the city. So make sure your devices are charged, take water with you, use maps, and stay on the trails. Fortunately, for the following locations only the first two points are required, since getting to them on your own is quite difficult. All you have to do is find a guide and get ready to enjoy the beauty of the island.
Cape Giant and Bird
Author: Andrey Shelkovoy
How to get there:
By SUV or as part of an excursion group.
On the eastern coast of the island there are two capes in the embrace of the Sea of Okhotsk. Their beauty is undeniable, but the path to them is not easy, as the condition of the road is constantly changing due to rains. Therefore, a good option would be to use the services of organized tours. The asphalt ends behind the already familiar Okhotsk, and then there is a mountain dirt road with holes and bumps. Take some anti-motion sickness pills with you – just in case something happens.
The coast is decorated with grottoes, rocks, arches and caves standing directly in the sea. The sunrise in this place is also a breathtaking sight. In good weather, the sun rises directly from the sea and fills all the stone sculptures with gold. What could be more beautiful than a cup of coffee with such a view?
Tikhaya Bay
Author: Andrey Shelkovoy
How to get there:
By train or car. If you choose the first option, then prepare for an overnight trip, or preferably two days. This is because the train departs from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk at 16:00 and arrives at the Tikhaya station only at 18:17. From there you will have to walk a couple of kilometers to the bay itself. The return train passes through Tikhaya station at 8:31.
One of the most popular pearls of the Sakhalin region. A place where you can try different types of recreation. Do you want to sit by the sea and think about the eternal? It’s not for nothing that Tikhaya Bay is named so – it’s calm and peaceful here. Would you like to conquer a small peak? Bold Peak is literally a stone’s throw away. Something more complicated? The Zhdanko Ridge is also within walking distance. Do you like SUPs or kayaks? There are such things in the bay.
This all looks like an ideal opportunity to sit by the fire in the evening, watch the sunrise, have breakfast and return to the city. Or stay another night and go SUP or kayak, climb the peak and walk around the surrounding area. By the way, in the summer you can rent a bed or a room in an old fisherman’s house. Volunteers live there and conduct boat trips.
For those traveling by car, I recommend adding one more place to the route – the village of Vzmorye. There you can buy fresh crabs or fish, get hot coffee and pastries. A nice bonus will be the Torii gate in the village itself. Such structures, a Japanese heritage on Sakhalin, indicate the beginning of sacred territory and are often installed next to temples. According to one of the legends of the inhabitants of the Land of the Rising Sun, these are special perches for the mythical rooster, which lured the goddess Amaterasu from the cave where she was hiding. But there is no consensus on the origin of these U-shaped gates.
Aniva Lighthouse
Author: Andrey Shelkova
How to get there:
First by car, and then by boat.
The abandoned lighthouse on the cape of the same name is not only increasingly attracting tourists, but is also increasingly being destroyed under the influence of anthropogenic and natural factors. Built in 1939 and designed by architect Shinobu Miura, Aniwa was completed in 2006. Lately there has been talk about reconstructing the site and assigning it protected status.
You can visit the lighthouse on the Sivuchya rock as part of a special tour. You will be picked up from Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, taken to the pier and transferred to the boat. You will bounce on the waves for about two hours, then you will be dropped off at the lighthouse and given time to explore the unique structure. Some travel companies may offer to go fishing and immediately cook your catch during lunch in one of the bays.
The lighthouse is interesting to view both from the sea and up close, and especially from the tower. There is still an opportunity to climb to the very top of the structure, simultaneously exploring the rooms while listening to the cry of seagulls (they have nests here). Be careful when taking photos at the base of the lighthouse – the algae-covered rocks are quite slippery.
Conclusion
In the next article I will tell you not only about the natural attractions of Sakhalin. We will walk around the capital of the region and try Korean dishes, which are as homemade here as borscht or dumplings. Let’s find out what you can buy in a regular supermarket and thereby surprise the residents of central Russia. We’ll also find something to do at the End of the World, literally.
*Prices are current at the time of publication.
