Tangier is a port city in the north of Morocco, on the shores of the Strait of Gibraltar. There is no imperial grandeur of the East here, this is an original place that opens the road to Africa for Europe.
Historical information
In the 20s of the last century, Tangier was divided into international zones, which were supposed to be controlled by several European colonial powers. But in reality, the states were never able to agree on the ownership of the territory. In 1923, the city was effectively ruled by France, Great Britain and Spain, and was later joined by Italy, Portugal and Belgium. Nominally, Tangier remained under the control of the Moroccan Sultan, but in fact was under the authority of the international administration. During this period, it became most attractive to travelers, writers and musicians from all over the world, who easily became expats here. This continued for 44 years before control returned to Morocco as part of decolonization.
Tangier is still the most Europeanized and multilingual city in the country – Arabic, French, Spanish and English are spoken here.
How to get there
You can only fly with a transfer. The cost of an air ticket is from 43,000 rubles roundtrip*. Ibn Battuta Airport is located 12 km from the center. A taxi to the city during the day will cost 120–150 dirhams*. By the way, at the end of April, the Russian S7 Airlines will launch direct flights to Morocco – the company’s planes will fly from Moscow to Casablanca. Royal Air Maroc also flies to this route.
Before your trip, take care of a certificate with a negative result of a PCR test for COVID-19, received no earlier than 72 hours before the trip. You will also need proof of your hotel reservation and a completed form.
Where to stay
Arriving in Tangier, tourists first rush to the area of the ancient Medina. There are mosques, cafes and restaurants, ancient buildings and a market there. The Grand Socco (“big bazaar”) sells handmade carpets and ceramics, spices and sweets. We recommend staying near the old town to feel the spirit of the East.
Here are some suitable options:
Dar Yasmine – from 3800 rubles per night*;
Kasbah Rose – from 7400 rubles per night*;
Dar Nour – from 6900 rubles per night*.
Tangier today
In Tangier, it is worth visiting the market and the Grand Socco square (“big market”), soak up the creative atmosphere in the cinema and art space Cinema Rif, enjoy local cuisine at Chez Hassan Cafe. We also recommend visiting the Kasbah quarter and the legendary bookstore Librairie Des Colonnes.
Grand Socco Square and Market
Photo: saiko3p/shutterstock.com
The place is located in the area of ancient Medina. Here the benches are hung with bunches of sweet tangerines and bananas, and the air is filled with the smell of mint and freshly baked bread. It is especially crowded here in the evenings – the place turns into some kind of noisy and colorful oriental bazaar.
Almost all restaurants and cafes in Tangier are located here. Thanks to this, the square is the gastronomic center of the city. Be sure to visit one of the many establishments to drink a couple of glasses of mint tea for 10-20 dirhams* and watch the bustling life around.
Cinema Rif
Photo: Glen Berlin/shutterstock.com
Ancient cinema and the main art space of Tangier. There is a cafe inside where the local intelligentsia gathers in the evenings. Here you can order a cup of coffee, light alcoholic drinks and snacks, or purchase bags and T-shirts with the Cinema Rif logo. And the bartender will tell you about upcoming events.
On the shelves you will find free newspapers with information about film shows: films in English, Arabic and French are available for rent. Be sure to stay to watch a movie – the soft red chairs and special atmosphere of the cinema hall will be remembered forever.
Chez Hassan Cafe
A small establishment with an open kitchen, known for delicious food and a good-natured owner. While they cook for you, look through the book of reviews and suggestions, in which visitors have left wishes and gratitude since the early 80s. There you will find messages from travelers from different parts of the world.
At Chez Hassan Cafe, try the national dish – tagine. It is prepared in special clay pots – a deep plate covered with a cone-shaped lid. The main ingredients are potatoes, chopped pieces of meat, chicken on the bone. You can also order a vegetarian option or a tagine with seafood.
On average, one dish will cost 24–35 dirhams. Basket with bread and olives included.
Librairie Des Colonnes
The bookstore has been around since 1949. The founding family was interested in highlighting the literary life of Tangier, and over time the store became the city’s main cultural center. The reading room was visited by many writers. For example, Mohammad Shukri, Paul Bowles, Tennessee Williams, Jean Genet, Juan Goytisolo, Jack Kerouac and others. Here you can buy publications in various languages and grab postcards as souvenirs.
Casbah Museum
Kasbah is a separate quarter of the city where the historical museum of the same name is located. It was located in Dar el-Makhzen, the former Sultan’s palace. Most of the exhibits are located in seven rooms located around a central courtyard. The signs are written in French and Arabic, but there are also brochures with explanations in English.
You will see huge flint tools, wine vessels with scenes of feasts, and floor mosaics from Volubilis. There are special interactive rooms where the historical chronicle of the city is broadcast on screens. Before you leave, don’t forget to admire the exotic Sultan’s garden in the courtyard.
Cafe baba
The establishment is located near the Kasbah. At one time, the main visitors to Cafe baba were the Rolling Stones. And in 2013, Jim Jarmusch filmed one of the scenes of the film “Only Lovers Left Alive” here, which is now reminded by dozens of photographs on the walls. At Cafe baba you can chat with the owner of the establishment – Abdullah – and hear stories about the famous director from the first person.
Locations for photos
Also in the Kasbah you can feel like the hero or heroine of the film. Here you will find another Jarmusch set – near the Kasbah Museum, at the very top of the fortress, there is the same courtyard with a gazebo from the final scene of “Only Lovers Left Alive.” It is especially beautiful at night, when illuminated by the warm light of the lamps.
14 km from the city is Cape Spartel, cutting the Atlantic Ocean and the Strait of Gibraltar. Be sure to charge your gadgets – rocky cliffs, sandy beaches, and foamy caps of waves await you. You can get to the place by taxi.
Here is the main “mythical” attraction of Tangier – the Caves of Hercules. These are two rocks in the area of the cape, where, according to legend, Before the next feat, Hercules liked to rest. Once he broke through the mountains so that a passage was formed between them for the Strait of Gibraltar. And now one of the rocks – Abila – belongs to Europe, and the other – Jebel Musa, located on the territory of Morocco – to Asia.
There are beaches around the caves – it’s great to have a picnic there, watch the sunset and swim in the refreshing waters of the Atlantic.
*Prices valid at time of publication
Preview photo: Lizavetta/shutterstock.com
Photos: unsplash.com/shutterstock.com
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