Here the peaks of green mountains are hidden in the clouds, the slopes are strewn with bluish triangular tops of pine trees, and the gorge is cut by a stormy turquoise river – everything is exactly like in the paintings of artists. If there is a place in Russia with an amazing riot of all shades of emerald, this is it. And even the river, in the valley of which there is a small village, bears the telling name Bolshoi Zelenchuk. This is Arkhyz! And it is in the summer that it appears before you in all its glory. We are sharing the optimal route for three days so that you can see different Arkhyz, and at the same time not get tired, but enjoy it. Let’s go!
A village with views like a million
Arkhyz is a small village in Karachay-Cherkessia with a population of only about 800 people. It is comfortably located among the picturesque mountains, and all life here flows along the main water artery – the Bolshoy Zelenchuk River. The gorge where the settlements of Arkhyz and Nizhny Arkhyz are located is called Zelenchuksky.
Until the beginning of the 2000s, it was an ordinary mountain village without a hint of mass tourism. Despite the fact that since 2010 Arkhyz began to be developed as a resort, it still retains its originality: no one is in a hurry here, no one invites you on excursions on the streets. Rentals, which in the summer switch from skis to rafting and ATVs, are quietly waiting for their tourists. There is not a single retail chain here: all cafes serve clear and tasty local cuisine, and the shops are very small, with a minimum set of necessary products.
How to get there
Road into the gorge on the way to Arkhyz
If you have at least a week left and you are traveling from Moscow, then a good option is to go to Arkhyz in your own car. The M4 Don is an excellent toll highway, but keep in mind that the 1,600 km journey (one way) will take approximately 1.5 days. That is, out of seven days you will spend three on the road.
If you have less time, choose a plane. The nearest airport is in Mineralnye Vody, 210 km from Arkhyz. In the summer, you can fly there and back from Moscow on a direct flight for 10,000 rubles*. A taxi from the airport to the village will cost approximately 5,000 rubles*.
There are no regular buses in Arkhyz, and car rental is not developed here. The most popular means of transport in summer are horses and ATVs. It’s better to rent a car in Minvody.
Where to stay
There are no large chain hotels in Arkhyz, but nevertheless, accommodation can be found for any budget. The resort is relatively young, and so far only the ski resort has a good level of tourist infrastructure. There are budget hotels and comfortable premium houses surrounded by forest. And yes, the village of Arkhyz and the ski resort of the same name are completely different things: they are separated by 10 km.
- Guest house “Tourist” (rating 9.8) – from 2,500 rubles per night*
- Resort hotel MOON2 (rating 9.2) – from 6,300 rubles per night*
- Large turnkey house Shantivillas – from 32,000 rubles per night*
What to eat
Khychin “mix”
In Karachay-Cherkessia and Kabardino-Balkaria, the first answer to the question “what to eat” is always “khychin”. These flatbreads with fillings are the hallmark of Karachay-Balkar cuisine. And Arkhyz is no exception: they are served in every cafe here.
By the way, in the Kabardino-Balkarian Republic and the Karachay-Cherkess Republic, khychins are prepared differently: the Balkars bake them and grease them with butter on top, the Karachais fry them. In addition to traditional khychins with meat, cheese or potatoes, Arkhyz has its own special ones – “mix”, they are prepared only here: they are filled with meat, cheese and tomatoes.
We recommend a great place in Arkhyz with homemade and very tasty food. Be sure to try the Khychin “mix”, homemade lagman and mountain-style meat. They also brew good Turkish coffee here.
What to see
Although almost all routes along Arkhyz are considered one-day, it can be difficult for an unprepared person or children to walk 8–13 km: the round-trip distance on most trails to lakes and waterfalls varies approximately in this range. And every place has its own nuances: for example, to one of the most popular routes – to the Sofia Falls – you need a jeep transfer, and some reserves must be left before a certain time. And if you don’t want to turn your trip into a “get there before sunset” quest, you have two options: come with a tent and don’t rush anywhere, or use our guide.
Day 1: descent on foot from the Milky Way cable car station
Going on the cable car on the first day in Arkhyz is a good decision if you want a quiet walk with beautiful views.
All cable cars start from the Romantic glade and have beautiful cosmic names: “Milky Way”, “Northern Lights”, “Soyuz”, “Apollo”, “Lunar Express”. The fact is that Arkhyz is the astronomical center of Russia, there are a lot of clear days here, and space observations have been carried out here since the times of the USSR.
In summer, only the Milky Way cable car operates in the clearing. A ticket for an adult costs 1,000 rubles round-trip, for children under 13 years old – 650 rubles. The ascent to a height of 2,240 m takes only about 10 minutes. The views are beautiful, but it’s definitely worth descending on foot: from there even more picturesque panoramas open up. The main thing is to choose how you will go down, there are plenty of options:
- special tourist route “Romantic Trail” (hiking time 3 hours);
- trail “Alanian Way” (hiking time 4 hours);
- Fedoseev pass (hiking time 7 hours);
- any ski slope (time depends on the chosen slope).
On each path you will meet stunningly beautiful old coniferous trees, and if you go in June – July, you will find flowering meadows, and you will definitely want to take a photo among these beautiful bushes. But it’s not worth it…
This is a very poisonous plant – Lobel’s hellebore. Its toxins enter the blood through the skin. During flowering, pollen causes severe sneezing and watery eyes. The first signs of poisoning are a burning sensation in the throat, increased salivation, tears, a runny nose, and it is difficult for a person to swallow: in this case, you should urgently call a doctor, and before his arrival, rinse your stomach and take activated charcoal.
You need to go to all routes in dry weather, in long pants and comfortable sneakers, or better yet, trekking shoes: on some slopes there are a lot of stones that crumble under your feet. And be sure to take water with you.
View from the Milky Way cable car station (2,240 m)
Day 2: uncover the secrets of space and find yourself in the 10th century
Nizhne-Arkhyz Alan settlement
Middle temple
Even if you don’t like walking through ruins, the open-air archaeological museum of Nizhne-Arkhyz ancient settlement will not leave you indifferent. This legacy of an Alan settlement of the 10th-12th centuries is one of the largest monuments of the early Middle Ages in Russia. There was a city, two plots for agriculture, two burial grounds and a village of the Alan diocese. The main objects of the settlement as a monument are three large Christian churches: Northern, Middle and Southern (the oldest operating Christian church in Russia). Entrance – 150 rubles per adult and 50 rubles per child. You can go on foot, or you can drive in by car, it’s free.
Alans are Iranian-speaking nomads, relatives of the Scythians and Sarmatians. These comrades were very warlike, they were considered invincible warriors. They even served as protectors of the Roman Empire, and the Alan military and spiritual heritage formed the basis of medieval knighthood. Where have the Alans visited: the steppes of Eurasia, Europe and even Africa. Some of them settled in the North Caucasus, they founded cities and accepted Christianity from Byzantium. But in the 13th century, Alania fell after the invasion of the Tatar-Mongols, and its inhabitants settled throughout the territory of what is now Ossetia. In addition to Ossetians, Karachais, Balkars and Ingush also consider themselves descendants of Alans.
Excavations at the site are still ongoing. Near the southern wall of the Northern Temple, archaeologists found the grave of a rich woman from Byzantium – there were jewelry and a ring with the name of the Armenian king Ashot I. You can take a look at this treasure in Moscow: it is kept in the Historical Museum on Red Square.
Northern Temple
And in the Middle Temple in 2022, 3 skeletons were removed from under the altar – a teenager and two adults. They were taken to Moscow for examination, and archaeologists continue to work at the site. Scientists believe that the burial chambers on the territory of the temple were used more than once: 3-4 skulls were found in each of them.
Night under the stars and space observations
More than 300 clear days a year and minimal light pollution make Arkhyz one of the best places for astrophysical observations in our country. In the village of Nizhny Arkhyz there is the largest observatory in Russia, SAO RAS, with the largest telescope in Eurasia and the second largest mirror in the world – almost every tourist has heard about this. Did you know that there is a location very close by where you can look at the stars through a telescope and plunge into the world of mysteries of our Universe? The scientific travel club is based here – this is a community of people who are interested in astronomy and popularize it among tourists: they organize astronomical expeditions around the world to observe eclipses, meteor showers and northern lights. They also give lectures, teach orientation by the stars and give master classes on astrophotography. Many events take place right at the observatory in Arkhyz: here the clearest starry sky, and the Milky Way is visible even with the naked eye.
Day 3: rafting on the Bolshoi Zelenchuk River
A great option to end a fun weekend in Arkhyz is rafting. All rafting takes place along the Bolshoi Zelenchuk – this is a picturesque turbulent river of turquoise color. Finding a company that provides such services is easy – there are many of them in the village. Keep in mind: you won’t be able to come and go “after the fact”; a group must be assembled for your boat, and rarely is there one immediately. The rental company will keep you informed throughout the day – those interested in rafting may appear quickly, but just as easily they may not be there at all. Call yourself periodically and inquire about the situation.
It’s best not to plan anything else on your rafting day. While your group is being assembled, you can take a walk around the village or have a snack – the distances are small, you will have time to do everything.
The price of rafting per person varies from 1,200 to 1,500 rubles*. Some rental companies give free photos after rafting. You will be given the necessary equipment: wetsuits, shoes, helmets and vests. Be sure to wear everything, it’s for your safety. And a normal instructor won’t take you anywhere without full equipment. After detailed instructions, the paddle is in your hands. The team is checked for synchronized rowing – and off they go!
Rafting is cool, but you can’t yawn for a second: at first it’s a little scary that you might fly out. The main thing is to keep your feet firmly in the special loops.
Rafting can last an hour or more, it all depends on your desire and budget. Usually an hour is the most popular time, but it still flies by quickly, and you want more!
Note
About roads. All trails in the gorges of Karachay-Cherkessia are of excellent quality. There is one “but” that you need to be aware of: on the way from Arkhyz to the village of Zelenchukskaya there is not a single gas station, which is almost 50 km. The few of them that are found are either just under construction or closed. In case of an emergency, you can refuel at ATV rental companies, of which there are plenty in Arkhyz, but who knows what they will fill you with. Therefore, it is better to refuel before entering the gorge in Zelenchukskaya.
About money. In Arkhyz, as in many places in Karachay-Cherkessia, cards are not always accepted for payment in shops and cafes. You can often pay either by transfer or in cash.
About pets. If you come with your dog, keep in mind that not all routes allow you to take it with you. For example, on cable cars small dogs need to be placed in a bag or backpack, but you will not be allowed through with a large four-legged friend. The same applies to nature reserves: in some of them you cannot take a dog.
*Prices are current at the time of publication.
