Sri Lanka is that “all green, absolutely all” island in the Indian Ocean. Time passes slowly here, work is difficult, and there is a high risk of losing contact with the outside world. But this is a great place to see breathtaking sunsets for the first time, breathe in the effervescent ocean and meet the most unusual people in your life.
Our author Nadezhda Doroshenko has visited Sri Lanka more than once over the past five years. During this time, she traveled all over the island and managed to live in the country for several months. We share her story about the southern coast of the former Ceylon – a popular place for surfing, wintering and beach holidays, as well as tips for organizing travel.
Photo: Stanislav Rozhkov
How to get there
Russia recently resumed direct flights with Sri Lanka; travel time will be 9–10 hours. Prices for Aeroflot air tickets start from 82,000 rubles* one way. Flights with transfers will be more budget-friendly – they are operated by Qatar Airways, Emirates, FlyDubai, SriLankan Airlines and other carriers. Tickets for such flights will cost from 35,000 rubles* one way.
The main hub of the island where tourists fly is Bandaranaike International Airport, which is located 35 km from the capital Colombo.
Photo: Stanislav Rozhkov
Entry rules
All COVID restrictions have been lifted. To enter you will need a valid passport, tickets and a tourist visa. It is issued online (only foreign cards and UnionPay cards are accepted for payment) for 50 US dollars (approximately 3,500 rubles). You can also get a visa at the airport upon arrival, but be prepared for queues.
A tourist visa is valid for 30 days, but it can be extended several times and you can stay in the country for up to six months. There are several ways:
- online on the official website;
- in person at the Department of Immigration and Emigration in Colombo;
- through special agents for an additional fee.
The path from the airport to the south of the island
Photo: Stanislav Rozhkov
By taxi
The most convenient, but expensive option. The approximate cost of such a trip is 40-60 US dollars (2,800 – 4,300 rubles) depending on the remoteness of the destination. You can order a car in advance. On the Internet and Telegram channels of the Russian-speaking community in Sri Lanka, it is easy to find a transfer contact and negotiate a price. Try bargaining!
By public transport
Train and bus are considered the cheapest options. They are suitable for those traveling without children and with a small amount of luggage. First, take a tuk-tuk or bus from the airport to Colombo (approximately 30 minutes). Then go to the railway station or bus station. A ticket to the desired location can be purchased on the spot. Approximate travel time from Colombo to the south is three hours. See the train schedule in advance here.
Briefly about the region
Photo: Stanislav Rozhkov
The entire territory of Sri Lanka is divided into 9 provinces, one of which is called Southern. It includes the districts of Galle, Matara and Hambantota. On their territory along the shores of the Indian Ocean there are more than a hundred villages. They attract tourists from all over the world with long beaches, tropical nature, fresh fruits, low prices and surfing opportunities.
The peak season in the south is from November to April. This is the most comfortable time for surfing and living in terms of weather. However, keep in mind that during the New Year holidays there are a lot of tourists there.
Travelers live in small settlements near the ocean, where locals fish and farm.
Unawatuna
This is a small town with a developed infrastructure: here you will find hotels and guest houses, cafes and restaurants, snorkeling and diving, massages and parties, souvenir shops and, of course, a lot of tourists. In addition, this is a great option for families with children and older vacationers.
Unawatuna beach – the main beach of the city. It is not the largest in the south, but it is one of the most touristically developed. Restaurants are located along the shore, tables are located right by the water, so a romantic dinner by candlelight is guaranteed. There are no strong waves or currents here, so the beach is ideal for diving and snorkeling. And if you’re lucky, you can watch the turtles that occasionally emerge from the water.
A five-minute drive from the main beach is Dewata beachis a great place to get on your board. You won’t be able to just swim there due to the large number of student surfers. But you can definitely rent a board, take a lesson from a local instructor, catch your first wave and eat in a cafe on the beach.
Where to stay:
Hotel Flower Garden (rating 8.4) is a three-star hotel near the city center. The cost of one night is 4,900 rubles*.
What to do: have a nice breakfast and work in a cozy co-working space at SkinnyTom’s. Try delicious wood-fired pizza at La Boheme. Climb to the Unawatuna Devol Devalaya temple and watch the sunset overlooking the ocean.
Kabalana, Ahangama
Photo: Stanislav Rozhkov
For many, the atmosphere here is reminiscent of Bali: there are many modern cafes, gourmet restaurants and luxury villas hidden in the jungle. If you are willing to pay for service and European quality, this is the place for you. In the center of Ahangama there are banks, pharmacies, a market, a supermarket and a bus station.
Beach Kabalana beach– one of the best in the south. Very spacious, long and clean, ideal for watching sunsets and waves. But keep in mind that you won’t be able to swim in a relaxed manner, especially with children. The current and waves on Kabalan are strong, so this place is more for experienced surfers. For those who are just getting acquainted with the board and practicing surfing skills close to the shore, this beach is also suitable. A few minutes drive from the main beach of Kabalana, towards Ahangama, there are a couple more spots for intermediate surfers.
Where to stay:
Timeless Villa (rating 8.0) – guest house overlooking Kabalana Rock for 11,300 rubles per night*.
What to do: go to your first surf lesson at the Russian school Good Story. Rock out at a trendy party with DJs at Trax. Ride the skate pool and listen to live music at Lamana. Try the most delicious falafel on the island at East Falafel.
Midigama
Photo: Stanislav Rozhkov
A small village where surfers from all over the world come because of the excellent waves. In Midigama itself you will not find expensive restaurants, boutique hotels, supermarkets and ATMs – for this you will have to go to neighboring Ahangama or Weligama. There are also many budget hostels and villas, a minimum of infrastructure and picturesque wild beaches.
Main beach Midigama beach small, quiet and cozy, here you can swing on the waves not far from the shore. But still, its main purpose is surfing, since there are two spots there at once: Lazy Right and Lazy Left. A couple more locations in the vicinity of Midigama, Rams and Plantations, are suitable for experienced wave lovers.
Where to stay:
The Surf Lanka Resort (rating 8.4) is a three-star hotel on the first coastline. The cost of an economy room starts from 1,450 rubles* per night.
Things to do: eat your fill of unlimited curry and rice at Mama’s Family Cafe. Watch the surfers and drink juice at the Blue Porch. Have a fun night partying at Cheeky Monkey.
Weligama
Photo: Stanislav Rozhkov
The concentration of IT specialists, designers, SMM specialists, photographers, yoga instructors and surfing teachers, DJs and other representatives of the liberal professions is increased here. The reason is an interesting crowd, cafes and restaurants for every taste and budget, inexpensive housing, parties and, most importantly, a long beach.
Beach Weligama beach – an incubator for growing surfers on the island. This is where most surf schools bring beginners for their first lessons. Here you can take a lesson from a local instructor or rent a board and learn on your own. Comfortable conditions and suitable waves for those who start and continue their surfing journey have made Weligama beach one of the most popular in the south. If you are not interested in surfing and are just looking for a place to have a relaxing swim, this option is not for you.
Where to stay:
Ceylon Clyders (rating 7.8) – a mini-hotel with a kitchen and a rooftop bar. A standard room will cost 5,800 rubles* per night.
Things to do: Have breakfast overlooking Weligama and play table tennis at Hangten Rooftop Restaurant. Take a surf lesson, drink delicious coffee and ride the skate ramp at the Russian school Soul Temple. Work in a coworking space with a swimming pool Outpost.
Mirissa
Photo: Stanislav Rozhkov
Another village with a rich tourist infrastructure. There is a supermarket, a bank, souvenir shops, cafes, affordable housing and picturesque locations. The place is very popular among tourists from Europe and Israel, and here, as in Weligama, there is a highly developed Russian-speaking community. Mirissa has several surf spots for intermediate athletes.
Main beach Mirissa beach cozy and clean. It resembles the beach of Unawatuna; in the evening, vacationers from all over the south gather at tables by the water. There are often waves here, and not everyone is comfortable swimming in such conditions. However, to the left of the main part of the beach you can find lagoons with calm water and turtles.
Where to stay:
Sea World Mirissa Beach (rating 8.4) – three-star hotel next to the beach. You can book a room for 5,700 rubles* per day.
What to do: Climb to the Parrot Rock observation deck and enjoy the ocean view. Try your luck chasing whales on a special excursion. Relax and have lunch at the Petti Petti restaurant.
How to move around the island
All of the listed locations are located next to each other, so you can easily drive around them during the day to choose your favorite beach. To get around you can use a tuk-tuk, bus, bike or train. All transport in the south, except for the train, travels along the same road along the ocean, so it is impossible to get lost there.
Knock-knock
Photo: Stanislav Rozhkov
This covered three-wheeled auto-rickshaw is the hallmark of Sri Lanka. It can accommodate 3-4 passengers. Inexpensive, comfortable, very colorful and breezy. You can and should bargain: for untanned tourists, cunning tukers offer prices several times higher than the real ones. If you like a particular driver, get his number – he will come when you call and take you wherever you ask. Plus will give a discount for loyalty.
PickMe service operates in Sri Lanka. It will show the adequate cost of the trip, calculated according to the meter; through it you can order a tuk-tuk, a car and even food delivery.
Bus
People call it crazy bus. You’ll understand why when you see it. Buses run at short intervals and stop at each location. There are bus stations in large settlements. This is a very cheap option, but you will have to fight with the locals for the right to take a comfortable place. During rush hour, the buses are packed to capacity, so if you are squeezed somewhere in the middle of the bus, move to your stop in advance, they are unlikely to wait for you.
Bike
Photo: Stanislav Rozhkov
Very convenient and fast. If you are ready to become part of the organism called the unpredictable left-hand traffic of Sri Lanka, then renting a bike is waiting for you. In fact, the more time you spend behind the wheel, the more order you will see in the chaos. You can also explore the island, find secret beaches and spots. And just look at the fabulous road along the ocean.
To rent and drive a scooter or motorcycle, you will need an international driver’s license category A. Another option is a Russian driver’s license category A and a Sri Lankan permit from the Department of Motor Traffic. Bike lessors turn a blind eye to the availability of these documents and always ask for money, a passport or something valuable as collateral. But local police sometimes stop you and ask for your driver’s license.
Be sure to wear a helmet. Without it, you will definitely be stopped and fined, not to mention the fact that safety comes first.
Train
Photo: Stanislav Rozhkov
Very cheap and colorful. Trains in Sri Lanka are suitable for medium to long distance travel. To travel between Ahangama/Weligama/Mirissa, it is easier to choose a tuk-tuk, bus or bike, but if you absolutely need to ride a train, go to the railway station – there is one in every locality. Train schedules with prices can be found here.
To summarize
The south of Sri Lanka offers a variety of everything: beaches, restaurants, people, entertainment, sunrises and sunsets. You can spend two weeks on the beach in Unawatuna or take a food tour of the restaurants and bars along the coast. You can rent a luxury villa in the jungles of Ahangama or on the shores of the Indian Ocean and not leave there, or you can surf in Weligama every day and not want to leave the “green island” at all.
*Prices are current at the time of publication.
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