Mountains and sea live in Montenegro. And quite a few people. Looking from the window as the plane maneuvers and lands on a narrow landing strip, you understand that in this country it is not man who dominates, but nature. It is she who sets the rhythm and way of life.
This is no place for fuss and haste. Montenegrins are leisurely – the grandeur of the “black” mountains is felt in their movements. “Polako” is the most popular word here. It means almost the same as “shanti” among the Hindus or “inshallah” among the Arabs. Looking around, you suddenly realize that the mountains stood before you, and will stand after you, and everything else is vanity, crumbling at your feet like husks.
You feel this especially clearly when you go up to the Ostrog Monastery. Elegant, pristine white, he clung to a tall rock – tenderness combined with impregnable severity. There is a belief that you need to climb to the monastery along a steep, winding road barefoot, without saying a word and reflecting on your actions, and the reward will be absolution. From year to year people go up to the relics of Vasily Ostrozhsky, ask for the secret, and miracles happen.
A measured morning with a cup of café and a beautiful view of the bay turns into an equally measured day, and then ends with a peaceful evening. Local residents don’t like to work. They love to drink “kafu”. The rough faces of Montenegrins, as if carved with an axe, are always imperturbable. They remind me of warriors on duty. Until you are called up, you need to rest. And then suddenly there’s a war, and they’re tired.
Their women are just as majestic and unapproachable. There is a sense of strength in the broad shoulders, Roman profiles and confident gait. Severe faces break into a smile only at the sight of children. Children are loved here, and there are many of them. But, for example, there are almost no fashionable shops and shopping centers to be found – Montenegrin women are unpretentious and are content with little.
My favorite road leads to the top of Mount Lovcen. The higher you rise, the more the earth sticks out the round side. The sun is blinding, refracting from the mirror surface of the Bay of Kotor, and for a second you lose your sense of reality. On the way you will come across shepherd’s huts and ancient churches, and wild lemons and pomegranates fall right under your feet. Having reached the top, you understand perfectly well Prince Njegosh, who wished to rest here forever.
“The Russians and I are one hundred and fifty million people,” say the Montenegrins. And these words make your soul feel warm and joyful. Closing my eyes, I see black mountains and hear the blue sea that smells of watermelons. I miss. I’ll definitely be back.
By the way, great news for those who are thinking about a holiday in Montenegro this summer.
The Government of Montenegro has increased the period of visa-free stay for Russians in Montenegro to 90 days! This means that you now have one more reason to discover this amazing country of contrasts!
