We continue to share inspiring routes for the summer together with Russian Explorers photographers. Pavel Matveev has prepared a guide to the Kaliningrad region. And so that you can use it as quickly as possible, in our telegram channel we are giving away a discount on air tickets to Kaliningrad, as well as for accommodation there.
Going to the Kaliningrad region for the weekend is a great idea. You will see this in a few minutes – immediately after reading my guide. I will tell you about my favorite place in the region – the Curonian Spit. Since childhood, I have studied and photographed every square centimeter here. I will share some small insights that will make your vacation as comfortable and enjoyable as possible.
The cost of a flight from Moscow to Kaliningrad is from 5200 rubles* round trip.
The Curonian Spit is a narrow strip of land separating the Baltic Sea and the Curonian Lagoon and stretching from Zelenogradsk to the Lithuanian Klaipeda.
My first advice is rent a car. This way you will be able to visit many more places and will not be tied to the public transport schedule, which is not very well developed in the region. See for yourself: the length of the Russian part of the spit is 48 km. All this splendor is included in the UNESCO World Heritage List. And you only have a day or two. So a car is what you need.
A ticket to the national park costs 300 rubles per person, for a car you will need to pay another 150 rubles.
The Curonian Spit was first mentioned in 1258 as Nestland (German: Nestland), which means “Land of Nests”. Due to its location, the park serves as a corridor for migrating birds. And directly during migration days (autumn and spring), up to a million birds fly over the spit every day. Most of them stop here to rest and feed. Believe me, this is also worth seeing with your own eyes.
The oldest ornithological station in Europe, one of the first in the world, operates on the spit. It was founded at the very beginning of the last century.
Let’s start our virtual journey. So, we will start from the farthest and most popular point – Efa Heights. Reaching 64 meters above sea level, it is the highest point of the Orekhovoy dune.
Until the 18th century, the dune was surrounded by numerous trees, whose roots held back the sand. Work on their planting took 100 years, the process was led by dune expert Franz Ef, after whom this place is named. However, for unknown reasons, the trees were cut down, and the sand wiped out 14 nearby villages from the face of the earth.
The length of the route is 3 km, in a couple of hours you can cover the entire path at a leisurely pace. The beginning is hard to miss – souvenir shops will tell you where it begins. There are several observation platforms along the way. Already from the first one there are magnificent views of the Curonian Lagoon, dunes and the Baltic Sea. And from the last one you can even see Lithuania.
During the walk, you cannot leave the equipped trails, since walking on the dunes themselves destroys them. Although I remember exactly that 15 years ago my friends and I walked here without any obstacles. It felt like you were in the middle of the desert. But now, of course, I follow all the rules. After all, this is a very small price to pay for saving such incredible beauty. But the fine for violators is quite significant – about 4,000 rubles.
I’ve been here hundreds of times, but this place always evokes real delight. The desert landscapes and the sea, combined with the incredible atmosphere of the Spit, do something strange to me. It’s like I’m in space: all problems and unnecessary thoughts immediately leave me… A trip here gives a pleasant feeling of inner purity.
After the walk, you can have lunch in several cafes overlooking the sea. I advise you to pay special attention to fish dishes – the sea creatures here are cooked literally a few hours after they are caught… What a thrill! Be sure to try garfish: this fish stands out with its green bones against the background of white meat.
You can get to the sea from almost any part of the spit, including the Orekhovaya dune. If you go not to the dunes, but in the opposite direction, then in just five minutes you will find yourself on an incredible white sand beach. Just look at these views!
But there is one big drawback – there are almost always a lot of people here. So you are unlikely to be able to enjoy solitude. True, there is one place that not everyone knows about – I’ll definitely tell you about it, but a little later.
In the meantime, I’ll take you to Dancing Forest. It is literally a 10 minute drive from the Heights of Eph. The trees here twist, bifurcate and even bend into a ring – their trunks are bent, as if in a dance. How did it happen? There are versions for every taste, choose: German testing of chemicals, magic (by the way, there are really many places on the spit that resemble Druid forests), natural and climatic conditions and pest caterpillars.
True, recently it is also possible to walk in the forest only on a special wooden flooring – previously tourists often tried to climb trees. As a result, the territory was fenced off, and pedestrian zones were equipped for tourists.
As a photographer, the colors in this place make a special impression on me. In soft light, especially in cloudy or cloudy weather, the green carpet seems to glow! It feels like you are in a fairy forest. I have rarely seen such a combination of colors! Spit is a truly unique place.
The highest point of the Swamp Dune is Müller Height. On the way to it you can find a large number of low-growing trees. And from a height of 45 meters there are beautiful views of the waters of the Curonian Lagoon, Lake Chaika, pine forests and cozy houses of the village of Rybachy.
The height is named after the chief forester of the Königsberg department. Ludwig Wilhelm Müller was assigned to East Prussia in 1871 and served in Königsberg for 11 years. He also organized work to contain sand and combat shifting dunes, and achieved government funding for afforestation work.
A significant part of the area here is planted with mountain pine. This tree, which grows naturally in the Alps and Carpathians, played a major role in the battle against the sands of shifting dunes. The unpretentiousness of mountain pine, together with the ability to hold sand together with its roots, made it simply an indispensable assistant.
Where to stay
There are not many housing options on the Curonian Spit. There are practically no hotels – it is a protected area. Of course, you can rent an apartment from local residents, but I’m not sure that this is the most convenient option. It seems to me that the two best places where you can stay on the Curonian Spit are located in the village of Lesnoy hotel and glamping.
In these completely different concept places you can enjoy nature, admire the sunset and have a great time.
Well, now, as promised, I’ll share my favorite point on the spit – the first parking lot after the checkpoint. Many people pass this place, as it is located right at the entrance to the territory. Thanks to this, it is very calm here. Sometimes you may not meet anyone at all – the coastline will be completely empty for several kilometers! And perhaps the most important tip: always carry a raincoat with you. Even if weather forecasters promise a drought, and according to forecasts there will be no precipitation in the next 150 years, rain can come at any minute.
I love the Curonian Spit with all my heart… It’s hard to even remember how much time I spent here, how many unreal sunsets and sunrises there were, how many stars were photographed… I’m not sure that even photographs can convey the beauty of this place. But I am convinced that if you come here and walk the route I have described with your own feet, you will definitely love this place as much as I do.
*Prices valid at time of publication
